Three Decisions

Blade size (3mm for precision, 5mm for general use, 7mm+ for thick cuticles). Steel grade (40X13 for daily pros, 95X18 for maximum edge life). Blade geometry (heel for speed on thick skin, no heel for control on thin skin).

Three decisions. Blade size determines how much cuticle you remove per cut. Steel grade determines how long the edge holds. Heel geometry determines how the blade interacts with skin. Everything else — spring type, handle shape, series — follows from these three.

Blade Size: 3mm to 14mm

Measured tip-to-joint. Smaller = finer control. Larger = more coverage per cut.

Size Use Skin Type Technique
3mm Precision detail, proximal fold Thin, delicate Russian manicure
4-5mm Everyday professional manicure Normal Classic, combined, Russian
7mm Thicker cuticles, faster coverage Normal to thick Classic manicure
9-14mm Heavy cuticle, pedicure crossover Thick, calloused Pedicure, podology

Start with 5mm. It handles 80% of clients. Add a 3mm pair if you do Russian manicure, or 7mm for thicker cuticles.

STALEKS Smart NS-30/3 — 3mm (our bestseller) STALEKS Smart NS-30/5 — 5mm (most versatile)

Olena's Tip

"Start with 5mm — you can always make a second pass, but you can't undo a cut that was too wide. I keep a 3mm and a 7mm in rotation for detail work and cleanup."

Steel Grade: 40X13 vs 95X18

Steel determines edge retention. More carbon = harder, longer-lasting edge. More chromium = better autoclave resistance. The trade-off: harder steel is harder to resharpen.

Property 40X13 (Expert) 95X18 (Exclusive)
Carbon 0.40% 0.95%
Chromium 13% 18%
Hardness 48-52 HRC 56-60 HRC
Sharpening interval 3-4 months 5-7 months
Ease of resharpening Standard Needs skilled sharpener
STALEKS series Expert Exclusive
Western equivalent AISI 420 AISI 440C

Most professionals use 40X13 (Expert). It holds an edge through weeks of daily use and is straightforward to resharpen. 95X18 (Exclusive) is for high-volume techs who want maximum time between sharpenings.

STALEKS Expert NE-91/5 — 40X13 steel, 5mm STALEKS Exclusive NX-20/5 — 95X18 steel, 5mm

The Smart and Classic series use medical-grade stainless steel — solid quality for mid-career techs and students.

Blade Geometry: Heel vs No Heel

With Heel Without Heel
Cut depth Deeper — heel guides skin into blade Shallower — you control depth
Speed Faster, fewer passes Slower, more precise
Best for Thick cuticles, classic manicure Thin skin, Russian manicure
Risk Over-cutting on delicate skin None — full technician control

Russian manicure = no heel. The technique demands millimetre precision around the proximal fold. Classic manicure = either works, heel is faster.

STALEKS Expert NE-90/5 — no heel, 5mm (Russian manicure favourite) STALEKS Smart NS-30/7 — 7mm (classic manicure, thick cuticles)

Quick Pick: Nipper by Technique

Technique Blade Heel Recommended
Russian manicure 3-5mm No NE-91/5, NE-90/5, NE-91/3
Classic manicure 5-7mm Either NS-30/5, NS-30/7, NS-10/5
Combined 5mm No NE-91/5, NS-30/5
Beginner 5-7mm Either NC-10/6, NS-30/5

STALEKS Series at a Glance

Series Steel For Starting From
Exclusive 95X18 Maximum edge life, premium finish NX-20/5
Expert 40X13 Working professionals, widest range NE-91/5
Smart Medical-grade Mid-career, solid daily performer NS-30/3
Classic Medical-grade Students, first professional kit NC-10/6
PODO Martensitic Podologists, medical pedicure Double spring, safety tips
STALEKS Classic NC-10/6 — 6mm (best starter nipper) STALEKS Smart NS-10/5 — 5mm (mid-career upgrade)

Browse all 52 cuticle nippers →

Springs & Handles

Spring types:

  • Fixed spring — standard across all series. No adjustment.
  • Two-plate adjustable (NE-11) — tune stroke length and resistance to your hand.
  • Removable spiral (NE-31) — detach for separate cleaning or replacement.
  • Double spring (PODO NP-30) — extra return force for heavy pedicure blades.

Handle shapes:

  • Straight — classic grip, suits most hands.
  • Wave-contoured (NE-10 series) — reduces grip pressure.
  • Curved (NE-80/81) — reduces wrist angle, best for long days.

Olena's Tip

"By the sixth client, you feel every degree of handle angle. I switched to curved handles years ago and the end-of-day difference was immediate."

STALEKS Expert NE-81/6 — curved handle, 6mm

Maintenance & Australian Compliance

Sterilisation: In NSW and QLD, cuticle cutting = skin penetration procedure. Autoclave at 134°C between clients. All STALEKS professional series are autoclave-rated. The consumer Beauty & Care line is not — do not use it in a salon.

Sharpening: 40X13 every 3-4 months. 95X18 every 5-7 months. When the nipper tears instead of cuts, it's time. Over 2 years, professional-grade steel costs less than consumer when you factor in resharpening frequency.

Daily care: Clean immediately with enzymatic cleaner. Dry thoroughly. Oil the joint weekly. Store closed in a case — loose drawers chip edges.

FAQ

What size for beginners?

5mm or 7mm in Classic or Smart series. Forgiving enough to learn technique. Add a smaller pair later for detail work.

How often do they need sharpening?

Expert (40X13): every 3-4 months. Exclusive (95X18): every 5-7 months. Signs: tearing instead of cutting, needing more pressure.

Can I autoclave all STALEKS nippers?

All professional series (Expert, Exclusive, Smart, Classic, PODO) — yes, 134°C. Consumer Beauty & Care line — no, heat damages the tempering.

Cuticle nipper vs nail nipper?

Cuticle nippers (3-14mm jaw) trim soft tissue. Nail nippers have a wider jaw for cutting the hard nail plate. Different tools, not interchangeable.

Best for Russian manicure?

3-5mm, no heel, Expert or Exclusive steel. Top picks: NE-91/5, NE-90/5, NE-91/3.

Smart vs Expert — what's the real difference?

Steel grade. Expert uses 40X13 (harder, longer edge life). Smart uses medical-grade stainless (solid, slightly softer). Both are professional quality. The NS-30/3 is our bestselling nipper — Smart series, not Expert.